Heartleaf (Houttuynia Cordata)
The Korean calming plant (eoseongcho) — helps soothe the look of redness, with light hydration.
What it is
Heartleaf is the common name for Houttuynia cordata, a plant also called fish mint, eaten as a leaf vegetable in parts of Asia and known in Korea as eoseongcho. It became a staple of Korean calming toners. The extract contains flavonoids such as quercetin and rutin, which have shown antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab studies, plus plant sugars that help skin hold water. On labels it appears as Houttuynia Cordata Extract, sometimes as a leaf extract.
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Most of the evidence for heartleaf comes from lab studies, not from people using it on their skin, so treat it as a comfort ingredient, not a fix for acne or eczema. A big percentage on the front of a toner usually means the extract stands in for water as the base; it says little about how much of the plant's active compounds is inside, so do not pay more for a higher number. Plant extracts can irritate, so patch-test if your skin reacts easily.
What is heartleaf in skincare?
It is the extract of Houttuynia cordata, a plant also called fish mint, used in Korean calming toners and serums. It is a soothing, lightly hydrating ingredient, not an active like an acid or a retinoid.
Does heartleaf help with breakouts?
It is often marketed for breakout-prone skin because its flavonoids show anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activity in lab studies. That is not proof it clears breakouts on skin. For acne-prone skin it works as a calming layer next to an evidence-backed active such as salicylic acid, not instead of one.
Is heartleaf the same as centella (cica)?
No. They are different plants that do a similar job in a routine, and centella has been studied more on skin. Heartleaf usually comes in lighter, watery formulas. You do not need both in one routine.
Can I use heartleaf with acids or retinol?
Usually, yes. It is gentle and often used to calm skin on the nights you use an exfoliant or a retinoid. Apply it before your moisturizer, and stop if anything in the routine starts to sting.
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
The calming herb behind K-beauty "cica" creams — helps soothe stressed, reactive skin.
Panthenol
Pro-vitamin B5 — the quiet workhorse that helps soothe and hydrate almost any skin.
Mugwort (Artemisia)
The K-beauty calming herb (ssuk) — helps soothe and hydrate sensitive, stressed skin.
Ingredients help the look and feel of skin; they do not treat medical conditions. No brand paid to be here. Skincare information, not medical advice — for a persistent concern, see a board-certified dermatologist.